Currently the conversion from projective to affine in pubkey creation, signing, and ECDH use a constant time ladder inverse because the z value conceivably leaks information. This applies even in the pubkey and signing case where the resulting point is made public.
The constant time inverse is much slower than the best variable time inverse.
If the point is rescaled with a uniformly random value via secp256k1_gej_rescale (at the cost of four multiplies and a square) then z becomes uniformly random and thus inverting it cannot leak any information at all. Blinding in this way is arguably more secure against EMI/DPA sidechannels because the slow ladder inverse does a lot of operations and has more potential to leak than a couple used for blinding.
Benchmarking schnorr signing using this and the GMP inverse gives me a speedup of 1.15x, though that isn’t including the time to come up with a random value.